Tuesday, February 12, 2013

Anuradha Goyal
Tuesday, February 12, 2013

Hyderabad Hues XXV: Streets of Shah Ali Banda


A Golden Royal Enfield is the first thing we saw during this walk 
I picked up this small booklet from Archeology museum that lists walks around old city. Having done the regular places like Charminar, Purani Haveli, last week I chose to walk in the relatively unknown locality of Shah Ali Banda. Only thing I had heard about it was its Police Station and Bus stand that often get mentioned in the newspapers. So, this was to be a complete exploration and surprises expected. About a kilometer from Charminar towards Falaknuma is Shah Ali Banda area where during the Nizam era lived the rich and influential like Krishan Preshad and Shyam Raj amongst others in their well know deodis.


A Typical Khoya Shop
The first street that we walked into was the Khoya Gali, that had small Khoya shops on both sides and in the by lanes emanating from it. Khoya is wrapped in Aluminum foil, plastic sheets, paper sheets, newspapers and displayed in an open pan. There is weighing machine, pictures & calendars on the wall and a shopkeeper in every shop and the rest of the space is empty, something that is not a norm is most other shops that are brimming with articles in every part of the wall. The merchants in this market receive Khoya or condensed milk from across the state and they sell it to Mithai shop owners and retail customers here. On an average a shopkeeper sells anywhere between 200-300 kgs of Khoya every day. I was wondering if that is the kind of Khoya this city consumes but then is it not the city known best for its food and foodies.

A beaten down layer of Silver or Chandi ka Varq

In the same street for the first time in life I saw the making of Chandi ka Vark or the thin layer of silver sheet that is put in the sweets. In a small shop there was a small counter that had the finished sheets of silver pasted on paper sheets in stacks of 50 each. An old man sitting on the floor was beating the next set of sheets by constant and rhythmic hammering. I was told it takes 3 hours of constant beating to make 225 sheets from a small bit of silver. I know this visual will pop up every time I eat silver coated sweets now.



Little ahead there is a small colorful temple sandwiched between rows of buildings but standing out with its unique shape and color. It is dedicated to Akkana Madana – an incarnation of Shakti and is known by the same name. Inside the temple is a just a small room with a beautiful Silver Idol of the Goddess. When I visited a family was performing the Puja and they told me that this temple is hundreds of years old and is a favorite with the politicians who it is believed cannot win elections without visiting this temple. Coming back on the main road we saw this old gateway with a small clock tower standing like an adamant old man refusing to let go. The trees are coming out of its lintel covering the clock but the white gateway seems to be least worried about, all it wants you to know is how the Deodis of the bygone eras were and seems to be asking what have you made of the beautiful area today.


Hanuman temple in Lal Darwaza area, once again a small temple with its deity’s saffron color all over it besides a huge tree. The small narrow gates sounds intriguing. Not too far from here is Mahakali temple in pink with white Gopuram. There were many more things mentioned in the booklet that we could not locate and neither the locals seem to know about them, may be the booklet is old and the monuments no longer exist or may be another round of exploration is required.

India never ceases to amaze with wonders it holds even in the humblest of its corners.

6 comments:

subhorup dasgupta said...

Loved reading this. I have loved spending time in these areas. I still have the constant sound of varq beaters in my ears. Lukmi and shawarma smells permeate the air. Itr shops and their nuances are another strong memory. Loved the way you described that all these structures want you to know is how bygone eras were and what we have made of it today.

desi Traveler said...

Hi Anuradha... You have been to places in Hyderabad where even Hyderabadis have not been :)

Pattu Raj said...

Amazing. I had friends from Shali Banda, but never once I ventured to visit their houses!.
Desi traveler is right. A Hyderabadi like me has not visited this place so far.

A very nice post.

Anuradha Goyal said...

Thanks Subho, happy that you could find a connect.

Prasad, feel free to join in for these walks.

Pattu M'am, would love to explore some part of Hyderabad with you sometime.

Madhu Gopalan said...

Wow - I am in love with that bike! Love this post - Shah Ali Banda is very cool. I once passed thru that khoya road when all the vendors were actually making khoya - I was sick so I thought I'd come another day and did not stop to take pictures. I found out that they make it IN the shop in huge quantities only before festivals :( Awesome post - I'd love to go on a walk with you sometime :)

Corinne Rodrigues said...

Thanks for bringing back the memories. The Old City and its environs always had a magical quality for me!

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