Ashtamudi Lake – Ride Across Backwaters Of Kerala


Banks of Ashtamudi Lake near Kollam in Kerala were our home for two days, on our way back home from Kanyakumari and Trivandrum. Google Maps told me that the lake is fairly large. However, I needed to spend some time with it to understand its real size and more than size its life & soul.

Landscape of Ashtamudi Lake
A Landscape of Ashtamudi Lake

Ashtamudi is not very popular with tourists in Kerala as most of them prefer to stay in Kollam or in Kovalam further south. Others prefer to stay a bit north in Alleppey and Cochin.

Sunset view of a boat over the lake from our hotel
Sunset view of a boat over the lake from our hotel

Ashtamudi Lake – Kerala Backwaters

The meaning of Ashtamudi is with 8 cones. Some people call it star-shaped, while others call it Octopus shaped. You can decide what to call after you see its shape on an online map.

Luxury boat ride on Ashtamudi Lake
Luxury boat ride on the lake

As soon as we reached Kollam and checked into our hotel, we set out for lunch on the boat. This was a huge boat and the table was set for two of us. A small team served us lunch as the boat moved over the quiet waters of the lake. It was a surreal experience as we ate and the scenery around us moved. The shape of the lake started making sense as we moved from one arm to another.

Lunch on a luxury boat on Ashtamudi Boat
Lunch on a luxury boat

Goddess of Light

Lady with a Torch or Goddess of Light
Lady with a Torch or Goddess of Light

We came across the sculpture of a lady holding a torch. The locals believe it to be their own version of the Statue of Liberty. It probably acted as a mini version of a lighthouse for boats passing by. Distinctively European in character the stout woman can be seen from quite some distance. Some boatmen thought that this was many seafarers’ way of remembering the women back home. A small board beneath the sculpture says ‘Goddess of Light’. I guess there are as many interpretations as the viewers. One thing is sure, she breaks the monotony of water, green, and sky and you can not ignore her.

Chinese Fishing Nets

Chinese fishing nets
Chinese fishing nets

Slowly the ubiquitous Chinese fishing nets started making an appearance. They look perfect hanging from the banks overlooking the waters like a tea strainer in someone’s hand. More often than not, they are queued up together in bunches. They are a photographer’s delight. One can get lost in capturing them in different compositions. No wonder they are a popular image when we talk about the Kerala coast. In places, the fishing nets were parked right in the middle of the lake.

While at most places they were anchored to the shore. From a distance, they look like simple nets. It is when you take a close you realize how complex they are.

Colorful Boats

Colorful fishing boats parked by the Ashtamudi Lake
Colorful fishing boats parked

The Colorful fishing boats were parked on the banks, next to the lovely houses. The fishing nets all folded appeared to be resting and rejuvenating for standing in the waters as the sunset. The pristine environment here meant lots of birds. It is a pleasure to observe them as they fly from one green patch to another on the lake.

Tourist Houseboats on Ashtamudi Lake

Kerala Houseboat on Ashtamudi Lake
Kerala Houseboat

Some tourist houseboats crossed our paths but it never felt crowded. Either we were in the not-so-crowded part of the lake or the lake is big enough to let you have your solitude.

Close-up of Chinese fishing nets on Ashtamudi Lake
Close-up of Chinese fishing nets

Sun and clouds played their own role in creating a unique landscape for us. Coconut groves and palm trees demarcated the territory of water and sky with their green color. Islands appear like green dots floating in the water.

Some random facts about Ashtamudi Lake

Floating in Ashtamudi Lake
Floating on a traditional boat

This lake is a major center of Clams Fishery. Producing 10,000 tons of Clams annually. Most of it is exported. It is on the list of Wetlands of International Importance as per Ramsar Convention. Read this Hindu Article on how fisheries on this lake couple development with sustainability. What is interesting about this lake ecosystem is that it caters to tourists and the tourism economy during the day.

At night, it becomes fishermen’s domain as they lay their fishing nets at night for fresh catch in the morning. Tourist boats are not allowed on the lake at night.

Sunset at Ashtamudi Lake
Sunset over the lake

This lake is fed by the Kallada River that originated in Ponmudi Hills. It is the second-largest estuarine ecosystem in Kerala.

Cruise for the tourists
Cruise for the tourists

The longest backwater cruise in Kerala is between this lake and Alappuzha. And takes about 8 hours. This is one journey that is going to be high on my wish list.

I have not found a direct reference, but I am sure the lake saw and maybe played a part in all the trade that happened from the ports of Kerala.

While reading for writing this post I stumbled upon the website of this lake.

Locals commuting boat

Long narrow boats for the daily commuters across
Long narrow boats for the daily commuters across

In the evening from the comfort of the room, we watched the boats pass by. Longboats are being rowed at both ends and presumably transporting the families who live around this lake. There were, of course, the quintessential houseboats – the cornerstone of Kerala Tourism. The boat that took us around last afternoon now framed the sunset.

Small settlements on the banks
Small settlements on the banks

Even after 2 years of visiting this beautiful place, its memory is as fresh in my as it was the day I said goodbye to it.

The row of fishing nets
The row of fishing nets

Recommend you read the following travel blog on places to visit in Kerala.

Padmanabhapuram Palace, Fort & town

Padmanabhaswamy Temple, Trivandrum

Rendezvous with popular Kerala – a Tourist destination

Ayurveda for travelers


  1. I have not heard about the place. Now i came to know. I should visit there. Kerala is famous for its backwaters. I though only Alazhapula has the backwaters. Thanks for let us know such a wonderful place.

  2. wonderful.
    in the same area is the world famous mata amritanandamayi ashram, the amrita engg., school. medical institute, mgmnts. sciences.
    1 reaches the place by boat or a stunnig bridge. even non-devotees njoy the stay in the ashram which is infact a resort of a kind, which the beach outside the rear gate. the ashram itself is infact a little island that is surrounded by water on 3 sides. the multistoreyed ashram offers a breathtaking picture of the arabian sea blow as u view down from the top floor.

  3. Hi,

    I’m planning a 2 day visit at Ashtamudi mostly in Allseason hotel. But I’m a bit confused should I stay overnight in a houseboat or a six hour day trip is enough and then spend the night in hotel. Please suggest.

    Thank you.

  4. I returned from a two month stay in India last week so I loved browsing your site. Most of my time was in Kerala. I would love to explore other areas. A beautiful country that draws one back

    • Yes Maire, India has so much to offer to a traveller, to a seeker that you can spend your lifetime doing that. I am an Indian, have spent most of my life here, but Indian still never ceases to amaze me.

  5. Out of the lakes, you mentioned we liked Changu lake the most. Next, comes Pichola Lake Dal lake but your selection as usual extremely good. I may not be writing regularly but follow your blogs interesting & very well written. Thanks for the write up.

  6. I will definitely visit there. Kerala is famous for its backwaters.Thanks for let us know such a wonderful place.


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