Chand Baori at Abhaneri– Most Photogenic Stepwell of India

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Chand Baori - Abhaneri
Chand Baori – Abhaneri

Chand Baori at Abhaneri Village in Rajasthan is the most photogenic step well of India. When you stand next to this 13 story deep step well with symmetric triangular steps leading to the water at the bottom, you cannot but be mesmerized. You, of course, understand that in the desert of Rajasthan, it is a practical water management solution. It also serves as a natural cooler in summer months. But, what inspired the people of those days to build it so beautifully. Were all the public spaces so beautiful in 9th CE? I wonder how India would have looked then.

Chand Baori at Abhaneri, Jaipur

History of Chand Baori – Abhaneri

 Chand Baori Steps
Mesmerizing Chand Baori Steps

Chand Baori is the oldest surviving step well in Rajasthan and probably India. It was built by the King named Chanda or Chandra of the Nikhumbha dynasty. The time of the stepwell is 8-9th CE making it 1200-1300 years old. Yes, it is older than Taj Mahal, Khajuraho Temples, and Chola Temples but younger than Ajanta and Ellora Caves.

It is named after the King who built it. The city was then called Abha Nagri.

Baori is a general name for step well – other names being – Bawdi, Vav, and Pushkarni.
Anyway, let me show you the Chand Baori as I saw it in the second decade of 21st CE.

Visiting Chand Baori – Abhaneri

Having seen so many wonderful images of Chand Baori – I had goosebumps as I entered the premises of the Baori through a raised pavilion. I first saw a group of women worshipping the Shivalinga. A few steps and the step well appeared in all its glory.

Architecture of Chand Baori

First view of Chand Baori at Abhaneri
First view of Chand Baori at Abhaneri

On three sides of this 19.5 meters deep step well are geometric steps. Steep triangular steps ensure that you get down or up sideways and not straight. I wonder if this was done just for aesthetics or there was a practical purpose as well. I could only think that going sideways maybe a little safe. It also allows multiple people to sit close to the water.

The fourth side has pillared corridors at multiple levels. Two balconies project towards the stepwell. They are adorned with the idols of Mahisasurmardini and Ganesha. A step well also has an image of Sheshasayee Vishnu or the sleeping Vishnu. At Chand Baori, I was told there is an image at one of the lower corridors. Since visitors are not allowed to enter the step well, it is not visible. Idea is that the stepwell or any water body is supposed to be an embodiment of Ksheersagar – the ocean of milk where Vishnu lives.

Pavilion corridors of Chand Baori - Abhaneri
Pavilion corridors of Chand Baori – Abhaneri

If you look closely you would see a shaft to pull water up from the stepwell. It is so well concealed in the structure that you more often than not miss it.

35,000 Steps at Chand Baori

In all, there are 35,000 steps on 13 levels at Chand Baori. The Baori gets narrow as it goes down.

I walked around to admire the Baori from all angles. The water at the bottom was of bright green color – it added its own vibrancy to the ambiance. I could only imagine how it would be to sit in those corridors in the summer heat of Rajasthan. To be surrounded by the beautifully carved images all around would have been quite an experience. How I wish, we can re-create some of these experiences for our and our next generations to come.

From my camera lens, I could zoom in and see some lovely carved doorjambs. The staircases follow the same pattern as other three sides but on a larger scale. The arches, of course, tell you that they were later added as during the 8-9th CE India had no concept of arches like these.

Corridor around Chand Boari - Abhaneri
Corridor around Chand Boari – Abhaneri

Once I and my camera had a fill of step well, I looked around. Chand Baori is enclosed with a high wall and a corridor runs parallel to this. An ASI board informed me that the walled enclosure and the entrance are later additions and were not part of the original plan.

As of now, the corridors are full of excavated artifacts. There are stone sculptures of all kinds. I walked around trying to decipher a few, and here what I could find:

Chand Baori - Mahishasurmardini, Shiva, Vishnu, Mahesh, Carved Pillars
Sculptures around Chand Baori
  • Shiva Head in Red Sandstone, Shiva meditating, Shiva with Parvati
  • Vishnu as Kalki Avatar, as Parashurama
  • Karthikeyan
  • Mahishasurmardini – a very finely carved one
  • Brahma, Vishnu, Mahesh Panel
  • Harshat or Harsiddhi Mata Temple
  • Laxmi
  • Jain Images
  • Yaksha Statues
  • Some exquisitely carved pillars

Abhaneri Festival

An annual 3-day Abhaneri festival happens at the beginning of Sharad Navratras. So, it would fall 10 days before Dussehra or 30 days before Diwali each year. My guide told me that for these 3 days, the step well is open to the public. In fact, a kind of diving competition happens amongst the young men in the village.

It is not surprising since Navratras celebrate the Shakti and there is Harshat Mata temple next to the Baori.

Chand Baori gets a lot of tourists. It is one of those places in India that gets more foreign visitors than Indians.

Harshat Mata Temple

Harshat or Harsiddh Mata Temple - Abhaneri, Rajasthan
Harshat or Harsiddh Mata Temple – Abhaneri, Rajasthan

About 100 meters to the west of Chand Baori stands a solitary temple with a dome roof. It is dedicated to Harshat Mata who is also referred as Harsiddhi Mata in many texts. She is supposed to be a goddess of happiness and Joy. Now, who would not like her blessings.

The Harshat Mata Temple is contemporary of Chand Baori, built by the same king at the same time. In fact, ancient step wells were always located next to a prominent temple. The only exception I have seen is Rani ki Vav in Patan. It is a small temple on a high platform that you need to approach through a flight of stairs.

Stone Carved Sunflower - Abhaneri
Sunflower – a prominent flower carved on walls of Harshat Mata Temple – Abhaneri

I walked around the platform and saw the lovely depictions of Sunflower. Now, I had seen sunflower fields all the way on our drive to Abhaneri. It was lovely to see them on stone carved panels at this temple. They punctuate the other figurines all around the outer surface of the platform. It tells me that sunflowers have been around here at least since the time of this temple and step well. Finding sunflower in art is not common, across India and even Asia, it is the Lotus flower that dominates the art, followed by Hibiscus.

Amlaka

Harshat Mata Temple faces the east and it originally had a Nagar style shikhara also called Mahameru Shikhara. The remains of this can be seen in the form of broken Amlaka pieces around the temple. An Amlaka is the representation of Amla or Gooseberry fruits that sits on top of the temple Shikhara. Dome is obviously a medieval replacement. Within the Nagar Style, it is Panchratha style temple.

Carved walls of Harshat Mata Temple - Abhaneri
Carved walls of Harshat Mata Temple – Abhaneri

Notable sculptures at Harshat Mata temple are deities in the upper niches all around the temple. At the bottom level, you can see the Mangal Murtis of couples and Sur Sundaris. Parts of the original temple are profusely and finely carved.

There are board games engraved on the floor indicating that this was not just a place of worship but a community space as well.

The main idol inside the temple looks like a recent idol from its style. My guide opined that it was originally a Vishnu temple and not a Devi temple. I did not find a clue to that.

For me, it’s a small glimpse of the glorious past of this region.

Travel Tips for visiting Chand Baori at Abhaneri

Closer Look at steps of Chand Baori - Abhaneri
Closer Look at steps of Chand Baori – Abhaneri
  • Abhaneri is in Dausa district of Rajasthan, about 90 km from Jaipur. It is best to do it as a day trip from Jaipur.
  • On the way to Chand Baori, you can also visit Bhangarh Fort – the most haunted place in India.
  • You need 30-60 minutes to see Abhaneri. I spent about 2 hours as I was exploring all possible sculptures.
  • Guides are available at the site, but if you have read this post, you would not really need them.

Recommend you read following travel blog on Places to visit in Jaipur.

  1. Jantar Mantar Jaipur – Must see Observatory of Sawai Jai Singh
  2. Bhangarh Fort – Visiting the Most Haunted Place in India
  3. Top 15 Jaipur Souvenirs to pick – Shopping in Jaipur

43 COMMENTS

  1. I’ve been to Rajasthan quite a few times but never here, even though I’ve known about before. I intend to change that in January on my next trip and your post has re-inspired me! Actually, I’ll be going with my 72 year old mother so maybe we’ll do as you suggest and make it a day trip from Jaipur, along with Bhangarh Fort. Thanks for a great article!

  2. यहाँ तीन बार कार्यक्रम बनने के बाद भी जाना नहीं हो पाया।
    आपके लेख ने उमंगों को फिर से हवा दे दी है।

    • संदीप जी, हमारा तो ध्येय ही आपकी उमंगों को हवा देना है, आशा है इस बार आप चाँद बावड़ी पहुँच ही जायेंगे. वैसे दोष आपका नहीं है। राजस्थान में हैं ही इतने दर्शनीय स्थल की आप उनमे खो जाते हैं।

  3. You write, “In all, there are 35,000 steps on 13 levels at Chand Baori.” This is amazing and mesmerizing! Thanks for this wonderful write up. Just posted a tweet about it. One of the photos with the caption “First view of the steps” brought to my mind the goal of meditation as spelled out in Patanjali’s Yogasutras (1:3): तदा द्रष्टुः स्वरूपेऽवस्थानम् — Thereupon the seer (self) abides in its own nature.

  4. Absolutely, I still get goosebumps when I see the image of Chand Baori. Especially the way the baori is lit up during the Diwali is so mesmerising. I am planning to visit this place since past since couple of years but for some reason couldnt make it.

  5. This is incredible! How in the world was this built its incredible! Besides the steps, all the attention to details in the steps. Im super impressed just from the pics, I cant even imagine how amazing it was in person

    • Harmony, this is a traditional architecture of step wells in western India. Besides this one, there is Rani ki Vav little south of this one which is 7 floors inside the ground and absolutely ornate. You should see them when you visit India.

    • Most step wells in India are 1000 year or more old. I guess this was our indigenous technology for water management in dry areas that get hardly any rainfall. Sometimes I feel, we should have water tourism that includes step wells.

  6. WOW this is just so amazing, it’s hard to believe such an intricate structure could have been built so long ago! Thank you for sharing such great details about Chand Baori, it’s certainly being added to somewhere I’d love to visit to really grasp the size and magnificence!

  7. I’d definitely agree that it has to be one of the most photogenic steps, it looks beautiful! I’d never consided visiting India, but If I do, I’d like to visit here.

  8. What an interesting place to visit. I am yet to make it to India, but I definitely love immersing myself in history and seeing architecture from thousands of years ago. Its amazing to see what the thought processes were back then to create such brilliance. I’m sure I’ve seen this on Instagram before. That green water is just so vibrant.

  9. 35000 steps! That is incredible. Sometimes, when I see these structures, I too wonder about the past of our country. Everything seems incredible. Thank you Ma’m for inspiring us.

    • Rosie, unfortunately, it is not in active use anymore. That is the reason you see algae on the water giving it bright green color. It is opened once a year when Abhaneri festival is celebrated for 3 days.

  10. I found this step well mesmerizing! (I bet you guessed it by the amount of time I took on taking a 1000 photos!) Somehow, but, I had a feeling that some knowledge is missing, that some things are maybe forgotten about the stone well’s history. Ironically we did not get a chance to take a picture from below. That would have been cool no? =D
    Just the other day I saw the abhaneri step well again in an ad, or at least I think it’s that but I pretty much recognized it to the core.

    • Mesmerising it is. When the British brought the piped water, these step wells went into disuse. These are excellent water management strategies for arid regions like Rajasthan and Gujarat. What fascinates me is how they created them with love and affection – every stone is carved precisely and aesthetically.

      Next time plan to go at the time of Abhaneri festival and you can take pictures from the bottom of the well 🙂

  11. Anuradha ji, very informative piece but a bullet point on guides distressed me. Guides in India, genuine ones are excellent and should be hired and encouraged. That is the only way our tourism industry can flourish.

    • Rajaram ji, I want the guides in India to be professional & nothing can stop them from flourishing. Most guides unfortunately do not possess deep knowledge about the destination they are showing around.

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